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At the annual Seventh Circuit Bar Association’s symposium this summer in Indianapolis, members of the judiciary let loose an animated debate on lawyers’ inappropriate courtroom attire, The New York Times reported. The judges groused that lawyers wore clothing that was altogether too casual for the dignity and gravitas of the courtroom — plunging necklines, skirts that were too short, tacky ties or no tie at all. Whether dressing for the courtroom or the boardroom, The Lawyers Weekly canvassed experts whose fashion advice is sure to help you achieve sartorial success and avoid piquing the ire of judges.

Larry Rosen is a former Bay Street corporate lawyer, who quips he left law to become “a man of the cloth.” In 1985, he joined his father’s upscale menswear retail chain, Harry Rosen’s, assuming the position of chairman and CEO in 2000.

Karen Brunger is a certified image consultant and the founder of the International Image Institute based in Toronto. She has delivered presentations on image before the Ontario Bar Association and has helped lawyers develop their look.

Melissa Kluger is a former media lawyer turned magazine publisher. She is the publisher and editor of Precedent, a law and lifestyle magazine for young lawyers.

Stewart Downer is a wardrobe consultant at Harry Rosen’s store location at the First Canadian Place in the heart of the financial and legal core of Toronto. He has advised countless partners and associates on what to wear to work.

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Trendsetters
“Fashion trends are heavily influenced by what’s going on in popular culture,” Kluger notes. “For example, the third season of Mad Men is influencing both men and women’s office wardrobes. For women, the skirt suit is back and for men, the pocket square and the narrow tie are enjoying a renaissance...  Another popular culture influence this fall is the White House. Michelle Obama has brought back the sheath dress and jacket. We’re seeing lots of retro suit styles this year, but a little more fitted than in the past.”

The ultimate power suit
For men, the ultimate power suit is plain or pinstriped, navy blue or dark grey and woven from pure wool or wool-silk, according to Downer. He adds patterned suits may be interpeted as too casual to project authority.

“A high quality suit should feel comfortable. It shouldn’t feel like wearing a straightjacket,” Downer says.

Rosen favours Brioni or Zegna but says younger guys can look sharp in Hugo Boss.

Underneath the jacket, the shirt should be white or a light colour for a sharp contrast with the suit, according to Bruger. “Socks should match trousers not shoes and be executive length — long enough to cover calves so no glimpses of hairy legs are revealed when you are seated,” Bruger says. She adds that shoes should be lace-ups, such as Oxfords, but loafers are acceptable if you’re not seeing clients.

Weighing in on the great skirt suit versus pantsuit debate, Bruger maintains, “The skirt suit is a more powerful look for women than the pantsuit.” She adds, “What’s important is that the skirt is close to the knee in length. Too short and the focus is on the legs and you lose credibility, too long and it looks dowdy.”

The skirt suit should be a dark navy blue or grey and women should wear sheer hosiery and closed toe pumps with low heels to accompany the ensemble, according to Bruger.

Accessories that accentuate
The right accessories can really make the outfit. Quoting the famous Chicago architect Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, Rosen says, “God is in the details.” He calls the tie “one of the great beacons of self-expression,” adding that narrower ties are now in style.

Downer concurs: “The tie is the most important part of the outfit since it is dead centre...  People judge you on your tie.”

“A watch is a great place to invest. You should avoid the super chunky, sports watch and opt for a more classic style with a small face and a band made of leather or stainless steel,” Kluger observes. She adds, “Glasses are another great place to invest. Like watches, you wear them all the time, so they are worth spending money on. They can add a little personality, but also give you a serious look. You know, sexy librarian.”

For women who wear earrings, “subtle studs or small hoops are acceptable, but dangly or jangly earrings should be avoided,” Bruger says. Also jewellery should be white or yellow gold and costume and silver jewellery should be avoided.

Tie-clips look distinguished, according to Bruger who says this “little piece of jewellery sitting on a tie adds elegance.”

Rings are acceptable, according to Bruger, provided that you only wear one ring per hand, since wearing more than one ring “begins to look flashy.”

Casual Fridays 
U.S. national law firm, Latham & Watkins’s San Francisco office allows its lawyers to sport jeans all summer long, a break from a policy that allowed “nice blue jeans” only on Fridays, reported The Los Angeles Daily Journal this past June.

Rosen is aghast by this breach of decorum. “I don’t think it’s ever acceptable to wear jeans,” Rosen says. He adds, “Studies have shown that offices that are dressier are more productive. When you’re at work you should look like you’re ready to do business.”
Brunger says a good rule of thumb for casual Fridays is to go down two levels: “If you wear suits everyday to work, on casual Friday you may wear a blazer or sports jacket.”

The New York-based international law firm Curtis, Mallet-Prevost, Colt & Mosle dictated its casual Friday dress code in a memo to partners and associates, which was leaked to the legal news and gossip blog www.abovethelaw.com. In a terse summation of appropriate casual attire, the memo stipulated:

“Take your regular formal business wear, remove the tie and if you have a wild streak that clamors for expression drop the jacket. Instant business casual. Stray too much from that and you risk humiliation.”

Fashion mishaps
Inevitably, every office has its walking fashion disasters. The worst fashion faux pas that Brunger has witnessed are lawyers who wear clothes that “fit really poorly” and clothes that are “totally outdated or uninspired.”

Kruger says the drive towards conformity has stifled creativity in office attire. “I think the worst thing, really, is looking like everyone else.” Kluger remarks. “I was at an event at a firm recently and all the female summer students were wearing black skirt suits and white blouses. Don’t be afraid to mix things up a little, a small thing like a bright-coloured blouse, a vintage broach or a pocket square can really elevate your look.”

Dressing too casually is a cardinal offence for Rosen. At a meeting, Rosen’s indignation was raised when he sat across from his pricey lawyer, who was decked out in a golf shirt. “I didn’t like the thought that I was paying $650 per hour for someone who looked like he should be on the golf course,” Rosen says. “People make up their minds about you before you even open your mouth, according to Malcolm Gladwell’s bestseller Blink. Lawyers want to reinforce professionalism and inspire confidence... Ultimately, you can’t overdress, you can only underdress.”